5040 Peak Hike + Backpacking Guide | Vancouver Island

Written By Jamie Mogerman

I have hiked 5040 Peak quite a few times as an overnight backpacking trip as well as a day hike. I would say it's a good one if you're looking for a shorter overnight hike on Vancouver Island. Shorter does not mean easy though. It's basically straight up the second you get on the trail.

5040 is located between Port Alberni and Tofino just off Highway 4. So I'd say it's a pretty convenient trip if you're already heading out toward the West Coast or if you live in Port Alberni like me :)

QUICK TRAIL INFO

AllTrails has 5040 Peak (Cobalt Lake Trail) listed as a hard, 7.9 km out-and-back trail with 924 m of elevation gain. That's over 900 m of elevation over a pretty short distance.

GETTING TO THE 5040 TRAILHEAD

From Port Alberni you take Highway 4 toward Tofino and Ucluelet. Once you are over Sutton Pass you continue to drive west until you reach the turnoff for Marion Main Forest Service Road. This turnoff comes quick so keep a close eye out for it after Sutton Pass and definitely have a map downloaded before you leave since you can not rely on cell service. Once you turn off highway 4 onto the logging road you follow the Marion Main for about 10 km to the trail head. Which is pretty hard too miss there are alot of cars and a big newer gravel parking lot. Drive and park at the end parking lot so you don't have to walk far to the trail head. Unless you want a warm up before you start the hike!

ACC Vancouver Island says 4WD or AWD is required for Marion Main and after driving it myself I would definitely recommend it too. Last time we went up we needed 4WD. The road is rough in sections and there is one VERY steep hill right before the parking area. Make sure to check current road conditions before you go because they can change. Information on current conditions (road, trail, etc) may be found on the Hišimy̓awiƛ 5040 Alpine Hut Facebook page. Weather forecasts can be obtained from Mountain Forecast for Klitsa Mountain (near 5040 Peak).

THE HIKE

The hike is broken up into 3 sections. The first section you are in the trees climbing pretty much right away. You will be sweating instantly. Especially if you have a pack on your back with overnight gear. There are a lot of roots so be extra careful it's easy to get your foot stuck and fall (especially coming down). There are exposed rocks and a couple of short rope sections along the way. AllTrails describes the climb as “pretty relentlessly steep”. Which I would say is pretty darn accurate. I was huffing and puffing and I consider myself in good shape. I do hyrox training.. haha

Once you’re through the steep section in the trees and have passed the river and some rope climbs you will almost be at Cobalt Lake. Which is a great spot to have lunch or a snack and of course have a cool dip in the lake. It is so worth it so please do it. 

SECTION 2: COBALT LAKE TO THE HUT

Once you’re refreshed and have put on your sweaty clothes again (never fun) from here you start the climb up to the 5040 hut which isn't too bad its much shorter but again steep and with the gear on your back it can feel heavy but so worth carrying the gear (tent, sleeping gear, food) because the overnight is the way to go. It isn’t long before you see the 5040 hut which is an amazing sight to see when you're exhausted.

SECTION 3: THE HUT TO THE SUMMIT

Don't stop at the hut though you still have the actual summit to do! Or… you can set up your tent or hang at the hut for a bit if you're staying there and unpack a bunch of your heavy stuff before hitting the trial again. Once you’ve dumped some of your gear you can continue climbing up the ridge toward 5040 Peak. Compared to that first climb through the trees, I find this part way more enjoyable. You're out in the open alpine now so way less trees and the views just keep getting better as you go. Plus the wildflowers are so pretty. There are some steeper and rockier sections as you make your way up and possibly snow sections depending on when you go. Once you reach the summit, you get those big views over the surrounding mountains, including Triple Peak right across from you. Seriously that view of the lake with Triple Peak in the background makes it all worth it. Usually at the top I have some food and really chill out taking it in at the top.

The views up here at sunrise and sunset are even better. But it’s hard to stay up that late after hiking all day.

CAMPING or THE 5040 HUT

So as I said you can either do 5040 as a day hike or camp overnight and you can also book Hišimy̓awiƛ 5040 Alpine Hut. Hišimy̓awiƛ means “Gather Together” in the Barkley Sound dialect of the Ucluelet First Nation. You need to reserve this well in advance. Here is the link: https://accvi.ca/5040-peak-hut/bookthehut/

I have stayed here once before and it's great. You feel like royalty sitting on the front deck in the chairs that are provided while everyone hikes on pass or are setting up their tents. The hut is perched on a spectacular ridge at 1350m on 5040 Peak. There are two bunk rooms with 6 beds in each plus a large sitting area, kitchen, and amazing deck overlooking the view. The hut has mattresses, a propane cooktop, pots, pans, dishes and utensils. You'll still need your own sleeping bag, food and personal gear. The hut facilities are reserved only for those staying in the hut or who have reserved space. 

If your camping, alot of people set up their tents at the lake or near the hut or closer to the summit. There is space to camp available nearby, on the gravel to the east of the hut. Personally I like the idea of setting up camp by the lake and go for dips throughout the day.

Campers may use the hut for emergency purposes, for example if an unexpected severe storm comes in. Otherwise if it’s just rain or snow they should be prepared to camp in regular mountain weather.

WATER

I would start the hike with around 1.5–2 L of water per person and definitely bring a water filter so you can refill along the way. I use the Katadyn BeFree water filtration system which is super easy to fill up and filter as you go. You'll be sweating pretty quickly on that first climb, especially on a hot day or with an overnight pack so make sure to pack water and a filter.

There are places to fill up along the way including Cobalt Lake and water around the hut area. Make sure you filter any water you collect. And before heading from the hut up to the summit definitely fill up your water you dont want to reply on finding any water once you're up there.

BATHROOMS

Everyone is welcome and encouraged to use the outhouses which are located at Cobalt Lake and near the hut. None at the trailhead though.

WHAT TO PACK FOR AN OVERNIGHT 

  • Backpack

  • Lightweight tent (if tent camping)

  • Sleeping bag

  • Sleeping pad and pillow (if tent camping)

  • Stove, fuel, and cook set (if tent camping — hut has cooking equipment)

  • Food and lots of snacks

  • Lots of water and water filter

  • Headlamp

  • Hiking poles

  • Bear spray

  • Good hiking shoes/boots

  • Extra socks

  • Bathing suit

  • Warm layers

  • Rain jacket

  • Hat and sunscreen

  • Bug stray and mosquito headnet (so many bugs!)

  • Phone/GPS with offline map downloaded

  • First aid kit

  • Emergency essentials — whistle, emergency blanket, lighter/fire starter

  • Toiletries/personal items

I did it once without hiking poles and I really missed my poles.  They make a big difference on the climb and especially coming back down. I wasn't as sore using them.

WHAT TO PACK AS A DAY HIKE

  • Small backpack

  • Water and water filter

  • Food and lots of snacks

  • Hiking poles

  • Bear spray

  • Headlamp

  • Good hiking shoes/boots

  • Extra layer/warm layer

  • Bathing suit

  • Bug spray and mosquito bug net (so many bugs!)

  • Rain jacket

  • Hat and sunscreen

  • Phone/GPS with offline map downloaded

  • Small first aid kit

  • Emergency essentials — whistle, emergency blanket, lighter/fire starter

BEFORE YOU GO

Before heading to 5040 make sure you have checked the road, the trail, and the weather. The road has been closed all of September this year for bridge replacement work so that is worth knowing before driving all the way out there and finding out you cant go . 5040 is remote and it is a hard hike. The trail is steep and rugged and the conditions can change and you shouldn't rely on having cell service. I know if cell service at the summit but it was patchy or nonexistent throughout. Download your map before you leave, start early and give yourself lots of daylight. Even if you're doing it as a day hike, bring a headlamp just in case you're coming down later than planned. I would also make sure someone knows where you're going and when you expect to be back. Take your time coming down too. The roots and rocks can be so tricky on the way down. And if the weather changes, don't be afraid to turn around. If you do a lot of backcountry hiking, a satellite communicator is also worth considering.

I would check Recreation Sites and Trails BC, AllTrails and current road access before your trip.

HELPFUL LINKS BEFORE YOU GO

Before heading out, I would check a few things since the road, trail and weather conditions can change pretty darn quickly.

I would definitely check the live hut conditions before you leave. It's pretty handy being able to actually see what it looks like up there rather than just checking the weather in Port Alberni.

DON'T OWN BACKPACKING GEAR?

Something alot of people dont know is that you don't need to buy an entire backpacking setup just to try a trip like this. I own Alberni Adventure Gear and we rent out complete backpacking setups or just if you have some but not all the gear I can rent you individual gear items. We have backpacks, lightweight tents, sleeping bags, sleeping mats, pillows, Jetboils, fuel, water filters, headlamps, lightweight tarps, power banks, bear spray, hiking poles.. Honestly we have it all. 

We are located in a very ideal location just off the highway in Port Alberni. So if you're coming from Nanaimo, Victoria or anywhere on Vancouver Island you will be coming right through Port Alberni on your way to 5040. 

We are a family business and love to help get people outside. We own the gear so you don't need to :)

Jamie Mogerman
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